Cooking at 43° North: Alice Swallow’s signature dessert

“I don’t know what it is about food your mother makes for you, especially when it is something that anyone can make — pancakes, meatloaf, tuna salad … but it carries a certain taste of memory.” – Mitch Albom

It all started when I met Heather Logan. Heather is the director of the Cundy’s Harbor Library. During a discussion one day, I asked her if she had a favorite recipe. Without hesitation and with much enthusiasm, she exclaimed, “Alice Swallow’s lemon sponge cake! At any event occurring in Cundy’s Harbor, you will certainly see Alice Swallow’s lemon sponge cake.”

By the time Heather and I finished our chat, I realized I needed not only to get that recipe, but also to find out a bit more about who Alice Swallow was. The next thing Heather gave me was an entire ledger from the library. It was an accumulation of articles and photos of Alice, along with her husband, George, and, of course, Hoover.

Alice, her husband, George, and their son, George III, moved to Bethel Point in 1962. Right from the start, she became involved in many activities in Cundy’s Harbor. She was one of the first ambulance attendants and was active in the fire department auxiliary when her husband was fire chief. She was instrumental in the restoration of Cranberry Horn Cemetery, as well as the East Harpswell Baptist Church. She was a founder of the Sebascodegan Garden Club and both president and librarian for the Cundy’s Harbor Library.

It was all status quo at the Swallow household until a day in early May 1971 when the elder George discovered a tiny seal on the shoreline. The mother had been killed. George decided to bring the baby home and put it in their bathtub. The baby was the size of a football. The little guy wouldn’t drink milk, but did eat some ground-up fish.

After about two to three days of that occupancy, Alice wanted the bathtub back. George took the little guy to the pond behind the house and he did well there. They named the baby “Hoover” because of how many fish he consumed each day. Hoover was known to leave the pond and bang on the back door of their home when he was hungry, which was often. George often spoke to Hoover and gave him rides in the wheelbarrow.

After a few months, Hoover had grown much bigger and rather expensive to feed, so a sorrowful Alice and George took Hoover to the New England Aquarium at summer’s end. It was discovered during that stay that Hoover had started talking. He offered short sentences that imitated George’s voice and commands.  After that discovery, Hoover made an appearance on “Good Morning America” and was featured in The New Yorker and Reader’s Digest. Hoover lived for another 14 years and died in 1985.

George passed away in 1997. Alice had a picture of George holding Hoover engraved on his tombstone. After George passed, Alice decided to write a book titled “Hoover the Seal and George.” If you want to read this treasured story in its entirety, it is available at the Cundy’s Harbor Library.

Alice spent many years doing community service in Cundy’s Harbor and became a second mom to many service members from the Naval Air Station who rented space nearby. There were always baked goods available at her house for them. She was truly loved in her community. Alice Swallow passed away in 2007.  Her beloved lemon sponge cake is very popular to this day at activities and meetings in Cundy’s Harbor.

I made this wonderful recipe and, since May 21 is National Strawberries and Cream Day, I put fresh strawberries on a slice and topped it with fresh whipped cream. What a divine dessert for Mother’s Day or Memorial Day.

Alice Swallow’s lemon sponge cake

Ingredients:

6 eggs, separated (eggs at room temperature)

1 cup sifted all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 cups sugar

1/4 cup lemon juice

1 tablespoon lemon zest

2 tablespoons water

1 teaspoon baking powder

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

In a large bowl, beat egg whites until stiff peaks form while gradually adding 1/2 cup sugar.

Sift flour, salt and baking powder, then set aside.

In another bowl, beat egg yolks until thick and lemon-colored.

Gradually beat in remaining sugar with the egg yolks until smooth and well blended.

At low speed, blend in flour mixture, lemon juice, water and zest, then beat until combined (about 1 minute).

Gently fold in the egg white mixture with a rubber spatula until just blended.

Pour batter into an ungreased 10-by-14 tube pan (or a 3-quart Bundt pan).

Bake for 40 minutes or until a toothpick comes out clean.

Invert the pan on a wire rack and let it cool completely for about an hour.

With a rubber spatula, loosen edges of the cake from the pan and remove.

Dust with confectioner’s sugar to serve. Enjoy!

Many thanks to George Swallow III for permission to share his family’s story.

Cooking at 43° North, a program of Harpswell Aging at Home, brings Harpswell residents together for cooking programs, in person and online. Watch the Anchor calendar for listings.

HAH always needs cooks for its Meals in a Pinch program, which provides nutritious meals to seniors in need of emergency assistance. For more information, contact Julie Moulton at 207-330-5416 or juliemoulton28@gmail.com.