By July, most people have mentally moved on from rhubarb. The first flush of excitement it brought in May and June has faded, and the spotlight is now on tomatoes, corn and berries. But if you live in Harpswell or cook with what’s around, you’ll notice that rhubarb doesn’t always know it’s supposed to be done.
Last summer, I was wondering why the plant was still around late into July. I learned that the moisture of the coast and fog keep the plant from drying out. That’s the thing about rhubarb — it’s not fussy. It comes back every year without considerable effort, and in coastal Maine, especially cooler spots like Harpswell, it often produces well into July. Yes, the stalks become thicker and greener, but they are still excellent for cooking, particularly if you are not serving them raw or in a delicate dish.
I’ve been more interested in creating homemade drinks lately, using simple and whole ingredients. A few weeks ago, I made ginger ale from scratch with loads of lemon and fresh ginger. It was refreshing, bold — and highly addictive. This time around, I wanted something that really felt like summer, and lemonade came to mind. But instead of making it the usual way, I wanted to use what I had on hand: rhubarb and a jar of local honey. The two balance each other beautifully. Rhubarb brings the acidity and structure, while honey rounds it out with floral depth instead of excessive sweetness.
I use honey from our very own Harpswell apiary, Harpswell Honey — @harpswellhoney on Instagram. Each batch tastes slightly different. I’ve noticed that early summer jars are light, while later ones pick up darker, almost herbal tones. Personally, I love the lighter batches.
Simmering the rhubarb with lemon juice and zest helps bring out the flavors and concentrate them for this recipe. Honey is a natural sweetener and adds another flavor when used in place of cane sugar. The honey also dissolves smoothly, adds nuance, and reflects the landscape, quite literally.
Give rhubarb a try this summer, and not just with strawberries! Add a bit of acid and something soft like honey and you’ve got a backbone for all kinds of summer drinks. You can make a batch and keep it in the fridge for a few days; it’s one of those recipes that gets better after it sits for a bit. If you’re not into sweet drinks, this also works as a mixer for a cocktail.
So, if you spot a few lingering stalks of rhubarb at a stand or in your own garden, don’t pass them by. With a little attention and a touch of honey, they’ve still got something to offer. That’s what I love about seasonal cooking here in Harpswell: The calendar is a guide, not a rule. And sometimes the best flavors are the ones you almost missed.
Rhubarb lemonade
Ingredients:
- 2.5-3 cups rhubarb, cut into 1-inch pieces
- 1/2 cup lemon juice (about 5 lemons)
- Zest of 3 lemons
- 1/2 cup honey
- 2 cups water
- Ice for serving
Directions:
Add rhubarb, lemon juice and zest into a sauce pot over medium heat. Simmer for 15 minutes, then remove from heat. Place a fine-mesh strainer over a heat-proof bowl and strain the rhubarb. Make sure you get as much moisture out of the rhubarb as possible. Discard the pulp.
With the juice, whisk in honey until smooth. Whisk in water. The lemonade should be cool now, but if it is still warm, let it come down to room temperature. Serve over ice. Refrigerate the rest. Makes 4 servings. Enjoy!
