Harpswell’s Private Chef: A freshly baked tradition

A traditional Easter treat, hot cross buns combine warm spices with tender dough and just the right amount of sweetness. (Amanda Palma photo)

I’ve never been a fan of springtime. Maybe it’s because my sister loves it. If you’re a sibling, you know you can never like the same things. Or maybe it’s just the mud. Of course I enjoy the warmer weather and longer days, but they’re overshadowed by my impatience for summer. This year, though, something’s different. Over the past month, I’ve found myself embracing the upcoming spring. I’m excited for the pastels of Easter and the recipes that come with it. Don’t tell my sister, but I think I might be starting to like spring.

One of the traditions I have found myself excited about this year is baking hot cross buns. These lightly spiced, sweet yeast buns, dotted with dried fruit and finished with a signature cross, have long been associated with Easter and spring celebrations. They are a delightful combination of warm spices, tender dough, and just the right amount of sweetness. Whether enjoyed fresh out of the oven with butter or toasted the next day with a cup of coffee, they capture the comfort and renewal that spring can bring.

The history of hot cross buns dates back centuries. They are believed to have originated in England, with ties to both Christian and pagan traditions. The cross on top can symbolize the crucifixion of Jesus, but some historians believe the buns were baked to honor the changing of the seasons, with the cross representing the four phases of the moon or the four seasons. Regardless of their origins, hot cross buns have become a beloved treat around the world, often enjoyed on Good Friday and throughout the Easter season.

What makes hot cross buns special is the combination of flavors and textures. The soft texture pairs with the warm spices of cinnamon and nutmeg, while the bursts of sweetness from raisins add a tasty contrast.

There’s something satisfying about working with the dough, watching it rise, and then pulling a tray of golden-brown buns from the oven. The aroma alone is enough to make any kitchen feel cozier.

In my work, I love creating dishes that not only taste amazing but also tell a story. Hot cross buns carry centuries of tradition, yet each batch feels personal. I would love to know the stories told back then and the original recipe used. Whether I’m making hot cross buns for a gathering or just for myself, they remind me of the beauty of keeping tradition, enjoying the process, and staying in the moment. And perhaps, for the first time, they’ve made me appreciate spring for more than just its proximity to summer.

Hot cross buns

Ingredients:

  • 1 cup raisins
  • 1/4 cup vodka or rum
  • 3/4 cup warm milk, divided into 1/2 cup and 1/4 cup
  • 1/2 cup white sugar and 1/2 teaspoon sugar
  • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1 tablespoon active dry yeast
  • 2 large eggs
  • 3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
  • 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
  • Large pinch ground nutmeg
  • Baking glaze:
  • 3 tablespoons warm honey or apricot jam
  • For the cross:
  • 1/2 cup powdered sugar
  • 3 teaspoons milk

Directions:

In a small bowl, combine 1/2 cup raisins with vodka or rum. Set aside.

In another small bowl, combine 1/4 cup warm milk with 1/2 teaspoon sugar. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon yeast over the top. Stir and let sit at room temperature until bubbly and doubled in volume. In a stand mixer with whisk attachment, combine 1/2 cup very warm milk with 1/2 cup sugar, softened butter, and salt. Stir until butter is melted. Add 2 eggs and yeast mixture. Stir in cinnamon and nutmeg.

Switch to the dough hook attachment and mix in the flour until a soft dough forms. Knead 5 minutes on low speed or until smooth and elastic. It will be slightly sticky. Using a slotted spoon, add the raisins into the dough. Toss the vodka or rum, or use it for another recipe. Transfer dough to a large, oiled bowl, flipping it to bring the oiled side up. Cover with a kitchen towel and let rise in a warm, draft-free room for 1 1/2 hours or until doubled in volume.

Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface and cut in half, then continue cutting until you have 12 equal pieces. Roll dough into balls and transfer to a buttered 9-by-13-inch baking pan. Cover with a tea towel and let sit in a warm room 30 minutes, until puffed.

Preheat your oven to 375 degrees. Generously brush the tops with warm honey or apricot jam and bake for 15-17 minutes or until tops are golden brown. Remove from oven and let cool in the pan. Once buns are just warm (not hot), stir together 1/2 cup powdered sugar and about 3 teaspoons milk. You can add more powdered sugar to thicken if needed. Transfer glaze to a Ziploc bag, cut off the tip of the bag, and pipe a cross shape over each of the buns. Serve warm or at room temperature. Enjoy!

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