Cooking at 43° North: Repurposing those leftovers

It was by happenstance, really. We were at a holiday dinner and I was introduced to another guest. She was seated at my table and we proceeded to have a lovely conversation. We ended up having some serious laughs, along with some wonderful food. It was during that evening she told me about a good friend of hers who was a fabulous cook. That cook she was talking about happened to be my neighbor.

Angelina Simmons has lived in Harpswell for 27 years, having grown up in rural Boothbay Harbor with her mother and grandmother. She recalls her earliest memories of that time: “These two women used what little they had to care for and feed those around them. My mom was the youngest of 12 children, so I was raised on meals of seasonally available foods designed to feed an army. The kitchen is where I learned to read, to listen, to work hard and enjoy the fruits of my labor. In short, cooking is not just in my roots but in my heart. Though I love to experiment with flavors from many cultures, I find comfort in simple, seasonal dishes like this one from my childhood: bubble and squeak.”

I have to be honest. When I saw Angelina’s recipe, I didn’t know what bubble and squeak was. After researching, I learned that it is a British classic similar to the Irish dish colcannon. Many variations of this recipe are eaten all over the world. Some add meat, like ham or bacon, while others use only vegetables.

This recipe reminded me of my mother making potato patties with leftover mashed potatoes, frying them up in the morning with eggs and bacon. They were delicious. (Maybe I should mention that they were doubly delicious because she fried them in the bacon fat!) I make them on occasion for breakfast — minus the bacon fat, of course. My grandchildren request these all the time.

Now that I know I can add vegetables to the potatoes, I can sneak in some greens for the grandson who thinks cheeseburgers should be the one and only choice on a menu and the granddaughter who thinks pasta is the center of the nutritional universe. For another granddaughter who is on a gluten-free diet, this dish is perfect.

Having tried bubble and squeak, I can tell you that this will be a staple at our house. It is flavorful, simple yet delicious. It’s perfect for using leftovers. Mashed potatoes and any root vegetable, along with blanched cabbage, work perfectly. Brussels sprouts, thinly sliced, can be substituted for the cabbage.

Bubble and squeak is wonderfully forgiving because everything works. Angelina also uses this mash-up as a topping for her shepherd’s pie.

If you are using cooked cabbage, do not overcook. Blanch for a minute or two in boiling water, drain and immediately place in ice water, then drain again. This will result in sweet, tender cabbage.

Bubble and squeak

Serves: 6

Ingredients:

4-5 cups potatoes, cooked and barely mashed (or 3 cups potato and 2 cups of other winter root vegetables, mashed)

4 cups cabbage, chopped and blanched

1 onion, minced (or 1 cup leek, thinly sliced)

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 small bunch of chives, chopped

1 cup ham, cooked and diced

4 bacon slices, cooked and crumbled up when cooled. Reserve about 2-3 tablespoons of bacon fat, or use 2-3 tablespoons of olive or avocado oil instead.

Directions:

Mix all ingredients, except for the bacon fat or oil, in a large bowl.

Heat bacon fat or oil in a large frying pan over medium heat, until it shimmers.

Add your mixture to the pan. Flatten it into one large pancake shape or form the potato mixture into smaller patties.

(If you want to keep the fat to a minimum, make patties and brush them with a little of the bacon fat on each side instead. That is just enough to give them that brown crust. For a healthier choice, you can just use the olive oil for the whole recipe.)

Cook for 3-4 minutes or until a crust starts forming underneath. (If it’s one big pancake, fold those crispy bits that form on the edges back into the mixture and flatten down again.)

Continue cooking and folding in the edges for about 10-15 minutes. (This is when it squeaks while cooking.)

Flip the large pancake over, a quarter at a time, using a large spatula, or if you’re brave, with one good toss. If it breaks, don’t worry, just push it back together.

Cook for another 5-7 minutes or until it has browned on the underside. Season with salt and pepper if desired.

If making one large pancake, it will not look perfect, but the browner and crustier it gets, the better.

Serve with a salad for lunch or for breakfast with eggs.

Enjoy!

Cooking at 43° North, a program of Harpswell Aging at Home, brings Harpswell residents together for cooking programs, in person and online. Watch the Anchor calendar for listings.

HAH always needs cooks for its Meals in a Pinch program, which provides nutritious meals to seniors in need of emergency assistance. For more information, contact Julie Moulton at 207-330-5416 or juliemoulton28@gmail.com.