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Cooking at 43° North: A chill in the air

Peggy Rousseau’s autumn slaw makes a delicious addition to a Thanksgiving buffet — plus it’s vegan and gluten-free. (Kathy D’Agostino photo)

I have to admit that November isn’t exactly my favorite month. It’s a time of frosty breezes and solitude. When I was young, the harvest had been completed and all the farm machinery had been put away by November. With the intense work over, the fields that had been vibrant green and full of promise in spring had turned stark and brown.

There were feelings of emptiness when walking through those fields on a raw November day, when a chilly and deep quiet surrounds you. I walked through those empty fields many times through the years, contemplating everything from career choices to what dress I should wear to the senior prom. The same walks taken with my daughter gave her a chance to share her innermost feelings and thoughts, right down to pondering our decision to relocate to Maine. Those walks hold a lot of memories and important decisions.

I have fond memories from those dark Novembers on the farm. Among them is the divine smell that came out of the kitchen around suppertime. Every night, my mother would make a delicious meal with all the fixings, including dessert, which was usually a fresh-baked pie. The speed with which she prepared those dinners was amazing.

Many times the leftovers from the main course were put into sandwiches for the next day’s school lunch. Everything was wrapped with precision in waxed paper and placed in a paper bag. She would include a slice of pie and a piece of fruit. (In case you’re wondering, yes, all of us kids were little butterballs.) This was part of my mother’s daily routine.

I’ll share a secret. My best friend from the second grade, Julie, usually would have Ring Dings or Devil Dogs for dessert in her lunch. I would trade my homemade pie for her overly processed dessert every day. My mother never found out and it’s just as well she didn’t.

When it came to holiday dinners, my mother pulled out all the stops. Thanksgiving was no exception. She made the classic side dishes to accompany the roasted turkey, plus a soup, multiple appetizers and a variety of desserts. She always made ample amounts of food so there would be leftovers the following day. 

Those leftovers were, in my opinion, the best part of the holiday meal.

As the family got larger, she adjusted the amounts to feed our growing family. She did adapt to the growing numbers by setting everything out buffet-style. The variety of sides was amazing and made for some serious take-home platters.

Speaking of side dishes for Thanksgiving, I have a delicious addition to the buffet table.

This recipe came from a friend of mine, Peggy Rousseau. Peggy is a valued volunteer and a member of the Food Team at Harpswell Aging at Home. She and her wife moved to Cundy’s Harbor in 2021. Peggy’s recipe is tasty and colorful, holding its own with all the rich Thanksgiving foods.

To save time, this slaw can be made ahead, then tossed right before serving. It doesn’t wilt like a tossed salad often does.

This recipe is an excellent addition to any holiday spread. It’s also vegan and gluten-free. Enjoy!

Autumn slaw

Dressing ingredients:

  • 1/3 cup vegetable oil or light olive oil
  • 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons maple syrup
  • 4 teaspoons Dijon or whole-grain mustard
  • 1/2 medium red onion, minced

Salad ingredients:

  • 1 small (2 1/2-pound) green cabbage or about 10 cups shredded green cabbage
  • 3/4 cup sliced almonds, chopped pecans or chopped walnuts, toasted
  • 3/4 cup Craisins
  • 3/4 cup Italian parsley leaves, chopped
  • Salt and pepper to taste

Directions:

Whisk all liquid dressing ingredients in a large bowl, then add onions. Thinly slice cabbage and discard core. Combine cabbage with remaining ingredients, then toss with dressing. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Harpswell Aging at Home always needs cooks for its Meals in a Pinch program, which provides nutritious meals to older adults in need. For more information, contact Julie Moulton at 207-330-5416 or juliemoulton28@gmail.com.

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